ENGEL’S
COACH SHOP
105 So. Main Street
PO Box 247
Joliet, MT
59041
406-962-3573
September Ride Journal
(Note: This is pretty close to my journal
and is not too correct, structure or grammar-wise.
I didn’t realize how much I wrote with
dashes, but I journaled with thoughts
and phrases, often as though I was speaking
to someone. Please bear with all the
incorrectness of it all. I get pretty long winded and philosophical
towards the end.)
Day 1
23 to 24 miles to Fireman's
Point - Columbus
and Countryman Creek Rd.
- camped below a mansion in my humble abode - pondered the contrast and the
necessities of life. Hannah and Betsy are pretty tired. I'm not -
surprisingly. Ravioli for supper and by the time it was done it was
feeling like bedtime. Hmm, watch says it's only 8:30, guess I am tired.
Day 2
Up at 5:00, cake for H&B
- good drink from the Stillwater
and about an hour of graze on great clover. Tony is supposed to be here
about 7:30ish. P.M. - made about 17 miles visited with Tyler Peterson
(assuming) grandson of Dave & Rose Peterson. Gave directions to
another 4 1/2 miles stock tank in a coulee. Spring water, decent
food, spent the night there.
Day 3
Woke at 4 A.M. - actually
watched a semi loading at 3:00. Grazed the horses, H&B til 4:30 til
it started to rain. Back up at 6:00 -
off and on showers. Set in solid by 8:00 so packed up in the rain.
Reed Point by 11:30, 11:45 @ the Post Office. North on Reed Point Rd. - at junction of Trees Rd & Reed Point Rd
took R.P. road until cattle guard - looked at map - oops supposed to take Trees Rd. Out on Rd 10 to Mark & Barbara Berry -
wide spot in the road near a stock tank - nobody home so I hope it's ok.
INTERESTING – an older lady drove by towards R.P. as riding out - again drove
by where I unpacked - drove by - backed up I was about to the road bank &
waved & she waved & drove off! Suspicious character I am! Beef stew for supper - (canned) Mm, Mm, first
since Columbus.
Day 4
P.M. 22 to 24 miles, only 15 yesterday &
wanted to make up - was given directions by ? - didn't say - for abandoned
county rd. and saved a mile or so - also given directions where to camp by
"Rocko" up a draw to a stock tank.
Never did find the stock tank so must be the wrong draw - dry camp
tonite - Water 1st priority in A.M. - Also think I took a wrong turn - Should
have stayed on S. Shawmut Rd - I think I can get back - not a road in sight -
pretty much "out there".
Day 5
Haven't calculated miles yet,
but up @5:00 and in the saddle by 7:00 & rode til 6:00 pm. Take out 2
hrs for grazing & visiting - 9 hrs x 3 mph = 27 miles? Passed through Ed & Debbie Breddings -
son Eli - Ed said it was 16 - 18 miles as the crow flies - or horseback, to
Harlo - I'm traveling with the crows following a wagon trail Ed said leads to
the county road - leads to Harlo - Can't miss it – “just ride west” and such
words. 6:00 first things first, I NEED A BATH!!! Reminds me of Independence Day Movie &
Will Smith kicking the alien and yelling, "What's that smell?"
A good 4 foot wide creek - Spring Creek I think - good breeze, so no
bugs. Yesterday and today had flying ants several times and not much
breeze to keep them off. Not biting but everywhere. Should be in
Harlo decent time tomorrow - Cutting through Breddings cuts off a lot! - (By
the map I would guess 23 - 24 miles)
Day 6
Attitude Stop - As it ended
up I was only 1/2 mile from the county Road - further than I thought.
Interesting lesson was - following the old (100yr) wagon trail I saw where it
went up over a saddle & I thought since I was horseback I could go
around. However 3/4 of the way was a deep gulley not even horseback could
pass - why try to invent a new way when the proven, tried way is right before you? Great day - no houses all day til I got to
Harlo @ 3pm. 100's of thousands of unfenced acres with
only occasional cross fence on a Township line - I would guess. Got to Harlo, found the fairgrounds only to
find signs saying "No Horses", "No Livestock", $100 fine,
"No Dogs", and why do I want to rest a day in Harlo??? NOT! I'll head NORTH tomorrow. I rode through the drive through at Wades,
had a cheeseburger, fries, chocolate shake, & Pepsi - I felt like I was
going to get sick. 2 hrs later - I think I'll make it. Stopped to
see Cliff Schencks cousin's Saddle Shop (Wes), had a fun visit. Be
tempted to come along, but his daughter has a goat permit in the Crazies and
they're headed there tomorrow (Saturday).
Day 7
Sat. - I got out of town
around 9am after stopping for apples and water. Harlo's water is
gross! I started out figuring it to be slow and easy - supposed to be a
rest day anyway - and ended up being what I figure to be a 28 mile day with
probably 25 miles and not a house, couple of stock tanks were most
welcome. First house was Susan Phillipi (pronounced Phillipee) and 2
sons. Baling wire outfit & at first
I thought she was Indian-Native, but not. The 3 came out specifically to
visit as "It's not everyday you see a single rider and a pack mule."
As the mountains got closer the more it looked like we needed to make it.
Not much water and looking for Roberts
Creek.
We watered below the Bar Nothing Ranch where there was a sign - Forest Boundary
- 1 1/4 miles. That was a long 1 1/4
miles!! Found a spot at dark on Roberts Creek. Angus cows everywhere, but we were
home. Betsy knew there was a monster out there coming to get her so
she got tied up. Hannah grazed for an hour or so, then got tied up, and I
hit the sack. They didn't like it, but we'd deal with it after
daylight. Just a mile or so north of S. Phillipi's
we ran into nose flies that were the torment of B&H. Hannah was
throwing her head, Betsy was driving her nose into the dirt, going to her
knees. We had gone through a gate at a cattle guard & were in an
unfenced cultivated field and after a 1/4 mile it dawned on me to get out
of the field, back on the road, and within several hundred yards we were out of
them. We had a 5 mph walk going on for a while!
Day 8
Sunday - Relax Day - Saddle
bag water is gone, but 2 in the panniers & glad for that, even though 1 is
Harlo water. About ½ to ¾ mile back was a stock waterer, dug in &
either gravity or spring fed. We hiked back for water & grazed for
close to 2 hrs til Betsy bedded down and H. was standing with a leg
cocked. So we hiked back to camp, found a rock pile and a pucker-brush to
picket to and rest day resumes! We're on page 3 of the maps so we
must be making progress. After H&B were picketed and half
asleep I headed back to the stock waterer for fresh water and to take a
bath. It's pretty bad to walk past fresh cow pies covered with flies
and half of them leave to follow me. Bath was great and washed my shirt. It
has really sun-faded this week. The water has a sulphur smell and slight
taste but not real bad. Better than Harlo. Prepared my first cooked meal - every camp
has been a cold camp to now. About 2pm cooked a cup of water & macaroni -
Poured it all into a can of chili, added 2 slices of cheese and yum, yum -
chili goulash soup. It was great! I walked up the road a mile or so
looking for Roberts
Creek and found
nothing. Found some dry stock tanks and on the way back asked an Ed Tyler
- old timer - camped here & he says all the stock water is hauled in.
He gave me an idea where to look for another set of tanks on the way up, but
we'll use the "bird in the hand" waterer for now. About
5pm Betsy bedded down a couple of times and Hannah actually stopped eating once
to stand. I'll take the girls back to water and graze - the feed
is better down there, and refill my water. If I scoop it out fast I
can get the fresh refill water for me.
Day 9
Monday – 5 am to water and
feed and on the trail by 8:30 or 9:00ish. A bit cooler so I double shirt,
and by the time we were less than a mile I had the coat and slicker on.
Sporadic passing showers - the map showed a shortcut, a cross trail that would
save a bunch down below - off to about the south-west from the main Forest Rd -
got on top and sure enough Trail 8819 so off we go - this short trail is 2 hrs
long, but always heading west and right on the ridge top. I figure as
long as it goes west or north, we're good. The first two trail junctions
8819 goes west. The third it stops and 763 goes south-west or north,
north we go. Only to end on top of a rocky bald knob with a survey marker
and a steel pipe with three flat washers welded to it - and no trail off - a
few cuss words and back we go. 3 1/2 hours wasted riding time (2 hrs out
and 1 1/2 back - Hannah knew we're going back). So dug out the map for
the 5th or 6th time and figure we're still too far south. Back north on
8819 and sure enough there's a little unmarked trail that heads west southwest
- and finally we're off the mtn. On the way back we passed 2 6x6 ATVs and
Betsy survived, but now H&B are walking on eggshells. Up the trail we
go (back the trail) and coming around a bend out pokes a grey dog with 2 female
legs beside it. - Hannah goes 180 degrees faster than a blink, Betsy
figures if it's that bad she's not sticking around to see. She races back
down the trail - without me. I
got Hannah shut down, Betsy gathered up and the man & woman with 2 dogs
figure they'll hide out in the trees to let us by. I do convince
them being visible is better than boogey men in the trees. So after we
all get acquainted, we pass and move on. Finally on the bottom and we
find a really cool rock canyon and ride up a ways - back out and H&B feed
for 1/2 hr. or more on great grass. I spotted a stock tank down the draw
and headed for it only to find it dry, but the sky is black - rain is
imminent so we're camped (dry) on a patch of aspens. H&B on
sliding high-lines and me dry in the tent. The Chinese do make good
tents!
Day 10
Tues. - Woke up about 3:30
(didn't have my flashlight so I didn't know at the time) let H&B graze til
the moon came out and I could see it was 4:15.
So we grazed til about 4:30 - I was cold & went back to bed, up at
6:30 – cold - time for the winter coat.
Got on the trail about 9:30 - warming up some! First place a mile or so up the road was Art
Dover. Nice man - knocked on the door - no answer, friendly dog - so
found a stock tank and was getting ready to fill my water bottles from an
outside hydrant - out Art comes. He'd
been on the phone and hadn't heard me knock, but looked out the window and
wondered why there was a mule in the yard. Still in his slippers, we
talked for 30 or 45 min. - used to be a school teacher so knows everybody &
gave me directions to Braatens - to get to Sapphire Village gave me the typical
country directions - head west til you hit a locked gate, ride north til you
find one that's not. So west we go, no trails, cowpaths, and finally a
trail - two tracks west, northwest and I came upon the Werthermers gathering
cows. "You rode from where?!" Janet W. is sister to
Dee-Dee Preshinger, knows Hazel and Jess - small world. They gave me Sapphire Village directions - follow the road
& gave me the combination to any locked gate - Right out of the corrals I
took the wrong road - realized it a mile or so later and started heading
north. Great ride - 1 fence then open-open country. In the Wertheimer pasture I can see signs of
an old wagon trail and as it turns out I followed it all the way to Utica! Great ride - real windy but a good day -
Plenty of feed right by the Judith & and the sun goes down on Utica. Couldn't help envisioning the wagons, horses,
mules and women, men and children who traveled this same rd. Hannah left her fertilizer in commemoration
of her ancestors. Crystal clear skies and really cooling off.
Day 11
Wed. - Rode through Utica - read historical
signs & went to Hobson-Winifred Junction. Disappointed to see paved
rds. Only about 1 1/2 miles and back in pasturelands - Cut across &
stopped at Braatens, Cindy (Keith), was home with 2 grandkids. Was
uncomfortable with a total stranger coming in. Even with introductions I
didn't stay long. Uneventful day - ride to Dry Wolf Creek - lots of smoke. Didn't know
where the fire was. Cleared the rocks and debris good enough to sleep
on.
Day 12
Thurs. - Up at 5:30 by
stomping partners ready to eat - grazed til 7:30 then broke camp. Just
saddling up and Frank Fiddler stopped to check me out. Nice short visit
& asked if he was the one shooting coyotes this morning and it was - 5
rapid semi-auto shots - figured it to be. He was a bit surprised I knew I
think. Anyway asked to borrow the stock
tank & that was fine. After watering H&B stopped & visited
with Kent Ridgeway and nephew Adam. They are pouring new foundations
under Fiddlers buildings, jack em up, dig it out and new concrete - got to
visiting about who knows who and laughed in amazement that I am married to an
Alger & that brought in the "small world" visit. After
about a 1/2 hr. of that - headed for Monarch only to figure out I had 27 miles
to go to make it. Didn't. I don't know how far short, but we were
tired, hungry and mentally tired of looking around each mtn. point and still no
Monarch - so - by a creek, good grass, time to stop. Interesting how a
"deadline" and goal affected the sightseeing beauty of the
Belts. Did get a good picture of Round and Square Butte from the
top. Started out picking a camp spot a
ways up a hill - established spot - but when getting water to filter noticed
good grass & level spot down below. Already unpacked and H&B
tethered - so 7 trips up & down only 200 yards or so, and I had it
moved. So - water is filtered, chickens fed, cows milked, tent's up, and
light is fading. Tomorrow will be a long day if we make it all the
way. We'll see.
Day 13
Fri. - I forgot to check the
time, but we were on the trail by the time the sun was touching the mtn. tops -
guess by 7am at least. 2 hrs to Monarch (9:00) so 5-6 miles out.
Probably spent 30 to 45 min. there finding out we needed to take the Monarch
Hill. The Forest Rd
showing on the map is now owned by 13 or 14 people & to get everyone's
permission wasn't worth it. I'm not sure the hill was either - the
shoulders were bad to nonexistent, 70 mph traffic, & there was some kind of
antique sports car road rally - so pairs and threes of these hot rods every 5
min. One point we had about 2 ft outside the guard rail - which we made
for a couple of hundred yards only to find the other end butted right into the
rock bank. "Okay Girls - it's just another log" & over we
went. We survived but it was stressful. 6 miles to Belt Creek,
another 2 to a junction with signs saying Great
Falls 35 miles & it's about 3pm. We rode til
7pm found a wide spot in the curve of the road by a creek - lots of grass so I
guess this is home tonight. By my guess we still have 25 miles to go
tomorrow and had to have easily done that today. 6+2 (Hill) + 6 (Belt Creek)+2
(jct), +5 (next jct. at 5pm) + 5 for last 2 hrs = 26 miles? Last nite was
the first time trail mix sounded good so that was supper to save last stew for
tonight - might be something warm tomorrow.
This morning was pretty heavy with frost - water pot frozen over but out
of the mtns so hopefully not so cold tonight. I think I'll go without the
tent.
Day 14
Sat. - 25 miles estimated to Great Falls - in the
saddle by 7am - light frost on the canvas cover of my sleeping bag - but not
bad. Was fun to wake up, look at the Big
Dipper, guessed it was about 2 am and low & behold it was 2. 2
blow-ups - one in the middle of the county road with truck coming and
Betsy put the lead rope under Hannah's tail. Didn't know what had
happened until I saw the shadows of rope-tail-Betsy. Hannah cut loose,
jumping, kicking and carrying on. Lost Betsy but got H. shut down -
Betsy gathered up & truck could pass. We made fast time after that -
I decided we were going to be tired when we hit Great Falls and then put a rope under
the tail on purpose and learn to deal with it. 2nd time was out of Sand Coulee
when a truck and trailer were coming & H. decided to shy at a rock.
Put us all over the bank before I knew what was happening. Again when we
were back on top of the road & the truck passed we introduced
ourselves to the rock. Spurs hit, farts flew but we went to the
rock. Met Diane on top on Fields
Rd. out of Sand Coulee with fresh water and
cookies. Saved the Day!! I had been out of water all day and was
thinking I would make it to G.F. but was glad I didn't have to wait.
Finally made it to Dan & Nora's!! Yea!! They quick secured the south
pasture, I got a shower. Then we went across the street to Bob & Linda
Reemeys for Bob's 50th birthday party.
Oh it tasted so good!! Ate too much though. Bed time in the
camper. Ahhh.
Day 15
Sun. - Rest Day - Breakfast
of Eggs, Sausage, Toast, Fruit & Milk - Needless to say after Sat nite
feast and Sun. breakfast - my body couldn't take it - convulsive diarrhea hit
multiple times. Tacos with Keith, Katy, & Ann @ 12pm - could only
look at 1 taco but oh the Pepsi tasted sooo good. - Off to Big R for a front
leg hobble for Betsy - (quick to the bathroom again) & then to Katy's to
work on her S.O.C. Program, but couldn't find her data base either so I sent an
email to tech support. Back to Dan & Nora's for supper of corn,
scalloped potatoes and ham, potato salad, cake and ice cream. Mmmm
Mmmm! I think my stomach has settled down some - we all looked at
pictures I'd taken on the way up - Laura knew how to take the camera's memory
card & put it in the computer & we all watched - 9pm bedtime cause it's
a school day tomorrow.
Day 16
Monday - Packed up - fresh
shower and going by 10 am. Easy going because none of us were real
energetic. At the 10 mile marker on the rd. to Eden, Hannah came up lame. After checking her all over I am guessing the
right rear leg & maybe the stifle.
She can hardly navigate down the ditch bank so I called Diane & told
her I was headed back to G. F. & it looked like the ride was
done. But after 2 ½ - 3 miles of walking
back she seemed to limber up so I left a message on Diane's phone that I'm
going back toward Eden and going to try it again. We camped below Tom
Rankle's place where I can water in the morning & Hannah seems okay.
I think she had a muscle spasm - Charley Horse - Hannah Horse - & just
worked it out. I forgot to put the salt out at Dan's so it might have
been a salt deficiency thing. I've got to remember that better.
Betsy seems to not be too hungry & laid down real soon. I think we'll
adjust to the leg picket. Neither one
seemed to be too hungry every time I stopped to let them graze. Found
water at Mile Marker 11 about 5 pm. With the doubling back to G.F. -
added 5 miles & we are at Mile Marker 13 (13 1/2). We must be about
19 or 20 miles today even guessing a mile from Dan's - 13 on Eden road + 5 miles twice equals 19
miles.
Day 17
Tues. - Made it to Milligan -
stopped @ Eden Bridge for water for H&B - then south - was a long, dry
stretch - flying ants were pests most of the day and hardly any breeze. We found a stock tank just over the top of
Milligan Hill. Met Joe McKamey on top walking cows with his dog.-
reminded me of Bob Hull, calm and quiet, no need for a horse. He's a
cousin to Bill & Laurie McKamey who I went to High School with.
Bill's in Great Falls & Laurie's in Seattle.
Stopped in Milligan at the Anderson
Ranch. Filled my water bottles & had ice cream & peaches. Debbie Anderson was in Michigan
seeing kids, but met 3rd cousin Jim & wife Sandy with friends Don & Ann
- all from Alaska. Jim helps @ the ranch after Debbie's husband
Richard died 5-6 years ago.
Day 18
Wed. - Dan & Ann said
it's 75 miles to White Sulphur - Hannah's tired - I walked for several miles
giving her a break - Betsy's ready to go. As I walk, Betsy's pulling me
and I'm pulling Hannah. Walked til part way up the switchbacks.
Entered the Galt Ranch (Bill Galt) where I met Pat Bergen, had cowboy camp
coffee & a chewy bar. Great -- talked of his 36 years with the Galts
- "good folks to work for". Little low ceiling log cabin he
stays in, but must have family in White Sulphur also as he was headed in for a
home cooked meal. Gonna switch to Betsy tomorrow & pack Hannah.
Met Sam Wipf - used to work for the Galts - 7 years, but quit 3 months ago to train
horses on his own. He stopped a couple of times back and forth past where
I camped & visited a bit. Girls don't seem to want the creek water
here so we will find fresh this morning somewhere.
Day 19
Thurs. - I am camped 7 to 9
miles west of White Sulphur Springs according to which road signs you
watch. I like the 7 mile one. (I'll try using my glasses so I can read
this better.) At Milligan Jim and Sandy said I was 75 miles to W.S.
Springs. Where I camped on the Galt ranch Sam Wipf said I was 42 miles
from W.S. Springs. I saddled and rode Betsy to give Hannah a break & at
12:00 noon a sign said W.S. Springs 20 miles - and I hadn't left til 8:15 am by
the time I got everything readjusted - I had walked a foot for maybe a mile to
watch things, but when I got on Betsy the freight train cut loose. Poor
Hannah was trotting to keep up. I held Betsy back enough to not trot H.
but we traveled. It's hard to imagine 22 miles in 4 hrs. though, when I
realized we were within 20 miles by noon I put the brakes to Betsy and made her
walk to Hannah's pace. I stopped at 5:45pm at the first sign of grass and
water & we are at mile marker 9, but 13 miles from the W.S. Springs 20
miles sign - 13 miles in 6 hrs. - much slower pace. I had to adjust breast collar and britchen on
H. at noon. She had a couple of sores starting and is much better after
adjustment. I am sure it was more the pace than the saddle but adjusting
helped. Betsy doesn't eat well with the bit in her mouth so the freight
train was running out of steam. We covered the ground today, took the
time to mark on the map my camp spots which I hadn't taken time to do for
awhile. Sometimes I didn't know where I was until I rode the next day and
could find a reference point. When the pavement started, about mile marker
8 it was dry, hot and barren. We could see the Smith River
in the distance but no way to get there with the fences. The Old Timers
never would have put the road up on these dry, bleak hills! Haven't slept
in the tent since G.F. and it's been nice under the stars. Am wondering
about tonight though as clouds and lightning over the mtns in the east, and
west of W.S. Springs. H&B are knee deep in brome and alfalfa
mix. 2 hrs and Betsy is full and standing - as usual - and H. is still
eating. We are in the inside wide corner of a paved road to W.S. Springs
- traffic is fast but we leave Smith
River from here and we
have traveled far enough today! It was a mental challenge of mile after
mile of barren - not even green grass to graze in the ditch bank. Probably
the worst the whole trip, mile markers make it worse - constantly reminding how
far it is. I was glad to see single digits! Tall grass so the
mosquitoes are around but better than heat and flying ants! Pondering
last night - the last 3 have been crystal clear and no moon, no matter where I
am the North Star is always in the same place with the Big Dipper circling
around it. Our Creator is always in the same place and the Earth and the
heavens circle around Him. Watching the time of the Big Dipper and the
North Star - have to read it upside down and backwards to make sense of
it. It's like the Truth looks upside down and backwards to the world but
with the proper perspective it makes sense! I had mandarin oranges and 2
sweet and salty granola bars for breakfast but forgot to put anything in the
saddle bags for the day - long day - As soon as H&B were tethered I hit the
trail mix and went across the road for water. Had the Turkey and Vegetable Dinner - Dinty Moore Stew has been
knocked out of first place; the label says microwave and ready in 90 sec.
HA!! It was opened and gone in 90 sec.! Pretty sunset in the storm
clouds – Daylights fading and so ends day 19.
Day 20
Friday - I met Steve
Buckingham, wife Maggie, and daughter Shelby - senior in H. School. Came
to camp with a thermos of coffee and ended up inviting me to breakfast. Shelby headed to school,
Maggie to work so Steve cooked. Bacon, eggs, toast, coffee and
peaches! The first invitation to eat in a home - It was GREAT! - visited
the morning away - Steve was raised on the ranch - runs 250-270 cows.
Maggie works at the FSA in W.S. Springs. Ends up his uncle was sheriff
there -?- Bergen
- who is a brother to Pat Bergen. Steve of course knows all the
locals. He's on the school board, rotary, boosters etc. Greatest
compliment was - "It says something if Pat Bergen invited you for coffee,
cuz Pat doesn't ask just anyone into his camp." Ended up not leaving my camp til noon.
Headed for W.S. Sulphur, dropped south 2 miles west of town, headed
south. Real swampy country, Betsy didn't like it. She would hardly
walk, always wanting to stop, first time I had to spur her on. Once out
and into dry country she was her old self.
Guess she's not a swamp mule! Got to the south fork of the Smith River
and called it quits. Not as nice as the lush pastures of last night and the
girls didn't like it - didn't eat much.
Day 21
Saturday- Found my way south
towards Sixteen today-barren sagebrush shale country. Passed one sign
saying "Black Butte Subdivision" - a couple of sheds-1 house-
somebody likes it. Found a seep area in a swale on top with green grass
where we grazed for about 30 min. Lots of unfenced riding, just had to watch
for cross fences and cattle guards. Rode into Sixteen to a nice
little house with the yard green. Not just another abandoned homesite- a
young gal came out that was obviously new to the country. Asked if there
was any way to get to Maudlow and she said I'd have to go back to Highway
12-the road to Deep Creek Canyon-Townsend. A bit disappointed I headed
back towards (Highway 12 is 18 miles) the north figuring I'd cross to Ringling
and take the highway south & see Tom & Carol. At Battle Creek (It was actually Hays Creek)
crossing I met Mike & Ingrid Eckberg - who now own Sixteen. (It was
their daughter fresh from Minneapolis
area) and hearing my course told me to come back! They'd direct me across
the mtn. to Maudlow. As it turns out they knew Pete Buckley when they
owned Bowman's Corner in the 70's for 3 years and were amazed that my sister
Jody was now married to him. "Small World" I heard Ingrid tell
Mike as they headed home. Anyway, I headed back found a spot for H&B
& had club sandwiches, potato chips, potato salad, and chocolate ice cream
for supper. More great new friends! & visiting times! The rain
showers were blowing through and Ingrid insisted that I stay in the
"bunkhouse" RV trailer but I kinda like being with H&B. So
I didn't actually decline I just checked on the girls and stayed. Breezy
nite with much rain. All in all a great ending to what looked like a
disappointing day.
Day 22
Sunday - BILL'S DAY!
Woke up at daylight & hauled water to H&B & gave them extra cake
for the hard day and short feed - lots of crested wheat but dry standing & not
like green we have had. I have never seen Hannah & maybe any horse as
tired as her yesterday. The toes of her front feet are squared off cause
she can't lift them all the way up to step. She stumbles over
anything. We really need to rest! Yesterday about noon I realized
we have been covering lots of miles but not resting much - them or me. I
need a stream, grass, and a day to read. If I can get by with it.
We're in a hay corral on the middle fork of Sixteen Mile Creek on the CA Ranch.
Grazed to the stubs all around but good grass inside the hay yard. I
stripped the gear and we'll see if we get run off. Several cars have
gone by but look like Sunday drivers on a stroll – Anyway - Bill Day
- Ericka called that breakfast was about ready so I headed up to house.
After a brief visit & "how do you like your eggs?" Ericka
says here comes Bill & Bill is a neighbor 1/4 mile up the road, bachelor in
a trailer with about 50 cross bred inbred Pomeranian - Shelty dogs. About
30 of them travel with him Everywhere!! Here he comes with his herd of
dogs, pushing a wheelbarrow with jugs to haul back water.- no running water, no
electricity at Bill's house. So everyday he hauls water. His 4
wheeler is in the shop so he uses a wheelbarrow - H&B are a bit spooked
by the pack of dogs - all yapping so I headed down to be there, and meet
Bill. As I leave the house Ingrid says - "Don't be afraid, he's just
a bit weird." I went down to meet a great, nice guy! He's more
concerned about not spooking the horses than anybody. His language is
such you will never hear in a church, but it's second nature to him.
"Get back you sons of b's etc. He has picked up a piece of strap
iron along the road and threatens all of them but finally discards it, admitting
it probably wouldn't do any good anyway. After I assure him H&B will
be fine, I told him I'd walk up with him and that strikes a chord. So up
we go. Not to the house but to one of a
myriad of huts, sheds, half fallen in chicken coops - wrecked cars and
trucks. Out of one shed he brings a new bag of cat food and starts doing
"chores" So I followed him around first to an old car, filled
with debris and clutter and fecal remains of who knows how long, but in the
back seat is a rubber feed tub that gets a scoop of cat food. "Some
of the cats eat here, but the damn coons keep spilling the dish."
Off to the next shed, door's falling off "should fix that one of these
days" and inside is another tub, 1 scoop. Old chicken coops with doors
ajar - another station wagon back seat where he has to slam the door 3 or 4
times to get it to stay closed - "Getting harder all the
time!" Numbers of stops until the whole sack is gone! All for
the cats & "Damn coons". When he is done he takes a mental
finger pointing to recount of all the stops to make sure he hit them all.
Then he asks where I am trying to go and I told him Bozeman but I need to get across to
Maudlow. "Well you go up the old army trail that they used back when
they brought supplies over to Fort
Logan. That's the road."
as he points to the hill side above us, "and it goes over through Dry Canyon
and hits the middle fork road. Or you could take Sheiks Canyon Road and probably save 5
miles." As he points, and tries to explain the forks in the road and
the gates & which ones might be locked, he says, "I've got an old
black horse, and don't ride much anymore cause of my gimpy leg. I could
ride along with ya and show you the way." I was quick to jump on the
"personal guide" idea but that Ingrid was waiting breakfast and
then I'd get ready to go. He'd have to catch up his horse so it'd
take him a bit too. So we both went our ways figuring a trip
together. I sat down to breakfast telling Ingrid and Ericka about the
plan & they couldn't believe it, but what a great idea. About done
with breakfast and in walks Bill. He had gotten to H&B and Betsy had
hooked a hind leg with the tether rope & and he was worried she was in
trouble so I went to see. About half way there I could see she was fine,
so back to the house where Ingrid had started breakfast for Bill. So we
sat around the table while he had breakfast. After all the
"thank-yous" and "what great memories" we are out the door
to saddle up. I got on the old road before Bill so I got to watch Bill
& black horse and entourage of dogs head our way. A ten mile trip
across the mtns and then he'd have to head back, "Are you sure?
"I may have to walk a bit but I think we'll be fine." Through
the course of the ride I learned that he has arthritis in his left hip (why he
limps as he walks) and it's hereditary. His brother Sam died from a
gunshot wound in the chest - through the heart - that they figure was
accidental back in the 70's. Most of the dogs he refers to as
"Mutts" But there is "Sagebrush, Long-Runner, Can-hauler
and Jim" I have never watched SO much pooping, peeing, scratching
and yapping at once. They trail single file, fan out, race after some
scent, crowd around Bill's feet whenever he gets off his horse and race
off to investigate a coyote's yapping then they race back. What a sight!
Usually about 2/3's of them in front and 1/3 in back, constantly under foot -
like trying to walk through an ant pile and not step on any ants. And we
didn't! Betsy was super careful - "Look out Mutts" was constant
from Bill, under his breath. A trip I will probably never have
again! It was a rough, rocky, washed out old logging road that brought us
into Sheiks homestead where we watered on the middle fork and visited,
neither wanting to say goodbye. He hinted that maybe it would be best if
I took my girls out of sight so his black would get used to being alone
again. Hannah was acting horsey and Black was playing into it.
Visiting a bit more Bill noticed a downed log by the homestead house and he'd
try using that to get on (He had to have a bank, rock, ledge, anything to step
up on or he couldn't make it up.) So to the log - and I told him I'd
watch to make sure he made it ok and after a bit he did. It's quite an
ordeal to watch and the black stands amazingly patiently - up he is - waves
goodbye and off he goes - with 30 dogs all yapping wildly!!!! "Ole Bill -
I hope your trip home is safe and thanks for the personal guide and fantastic
memory and new friend!" I am sitting here writing away, hunkered
down under my slicker, trying to stay out of the wind, knowing you're up there
riding home. Ride well!!
As we were visiting at the Middle Fork rd I wondered out loud -
"Wonder what time it is?" As I am digging for my pocket watch -
Bill looks at the sun and says, "Oh 12 to 1:00, uhmm no it's daylight
savings time, it's probably closer to 2." Pop open my pocket watch -
2:15 - "It's 5:00 Bill - How ya comin?"
Day 23
Monday - Rained pretty good
last nite & was frost this morning. I was letting the sun dry things
out when Frank - from the CA Ranch stopped & inquired – Andy - ranches down
the road had stopped to see if I was a lost hunter and had called Frank to let
him know I was there. Not a big problem after I explained what was
happening and his only comment was, "I just wish people would ask.”
Anyway we were talking about listening to the elk bugling when he got his
binoculars and we looked at a sizeable herd on the hillside above us. I
had been enjoying picking out 4 or 5 distinct bugles all morning and he
confirmed there were a lot of bulls up there. Made it to Flathead Pass Rd
about 5pm & stopped. We had watered at Pass Creek just earlier and
picked lots of apples from a tree along the ditch. What a treat!!
We all had several and I filled my saddle bags for later. Not lots of
grass but plenty, creek, cottonwood tree to camp under - Good til morning
-
Day 24
Tues. - Something spooked
Betsy early in the night, I never did see what and Hannah never was
bothered. But Betsy was troubled all night. Up around 6am - sky
just starts to lighten then. Grazed for about an hr and 1/2 and
going by about 8 or 8:30. Picked up a
co-traveler a couple of miles down the road - looked just like Belle - same
blue eyes too - Nice friendly dog - willing for the company. She
travelled most of the day. Actually til about mile marker 4 on the
Springhill Rd. which would be 4 miles from the frontage road out of Bozeman to
Belgrade. We passed a house with a little boy and girl playing in a
sandbox, and that was the last we saw of her. Hope she makes it back
home. Got to Bozeman
and traffic is a fiasco. We went under the underpass between Bozeman and Belgrade
figuring it for the least traffic. We went to cross the frontage road
after waiting forever, and I guess Hannah must have gone to sleep cause when I
went to go she planted it, and refused to come. Consequently I burned my
hands on the lead rope. Next time I spoke to her first. Then the
railroad tracks were a spook spot - Hannah burned me again there - needless to
say my right hand was tender. Should have had my gloves on, but too late
then. Made it to Nate and Brittany's
about 5:30ish. Nate went and bought picket pins, cake and hay so unless I
get chased out, we'll be here til Friday. Then to Livingston.
Want to buy a headstall for Betsy & see Carol.
Day 25
Wed. - Nate & Brit off
early-watered H&B, played with Bentley (dog), washed clothes, washed
dishes, programmed the sprinkler system. Relaxing Day.
Day 26
Thurs. - Rest Day – Restock -
& took Nate & Brit & Janelle out for N & Bs 1st anniversary -
dinner at the Old Hatchery.
Day 27
Friday - Back on the
trail - felt good to be in the saddle again, but Bozeman traffic is the PITS!! Worst
experiences so far have been paved roads & no shoulders and unreliable
ditches - picked up another dog that followed, but finally put the "shoo
go home" on it @ Bridger Creek trail head. So many bikers, but we
survived! Worst was 2 coming down hill fast then putting on their squeaky
brakes with a dog running along side - Betsy was tucking tail and leaving
the country before I got her shut down. Made it to Mystic Lake
about 3 pm and never did find trail 436 that's supposed to go across. I
rode til 5:30 and finally stopped on the top end of Mystic to try it
tomorrow. A bow hunter - hiker from Maryland – Jeff - stopped with a map
and it looks like the last trail I was going to try Bear Lake Trail #53 - might
connect with other trails that head to Livingston - My map doesn't show Bear
Lakes that I can see, but it's try that one or head out to Bear Canyon and try
another route - Bear Lake Trail - in the morning - 4 miles - I thought it was
getting a bit late to try it tonight - so came down for grass and water.
Jeff is out calling an elk that bugled so he may stay here tonight, depending
on what he gets to happen-
Day 28
Saturday - "What another
day!" I took Bear
Lake Tr.
- sign says Trail # 53, there's no 53 on my map - Take it anyway - it heads
west. Before too long I was blocked in with downed timber - dig out the
ax – Oops - I forgot to sharpen it - worked on it a little with my leatherman -
it helped. Worked for about 30 min. on this 12 in. log waist high - got
about a quarter through. Gotta do something different or go back - no way
around, so I picked out the most rotten looking log and worked on it.
There were two deep so I cut the first - top one and jumped the bottom.
Betsy was balking and rearing but a little adjustment with Hannah's lead rope
convinced her. Further down the trail an 18" log down with the trunk
to the side of the trail that should have been not too bad. Betsy didn't
want to go til I got off. Then she jumped it like a deer. Hannah
didn't like it. Around and around. Finally leap rope/halter in the
left hand, lead rope on the butt with the right and she convinced herself to
go. Third log across about head high - too low for saddles - so we
bushwhacked a bit & made it. Then down this v-shaped washed out rocky
- real steep trail - straight down - I decided to walk - finally managed Bear Lakes.
One is moss pond and the second clear - followed the trail north decided
too much north - I want west, took the other it headed west, but only for less
than a mile. Then it stopped at a campsite - back to the north.
Came to a trail sign -Mystic
Lake to the South (where
I just came from). And trail 440 loop, just what I figure I don't want to
do is ride in a loop. Check the map - no trail 440 - but one that looks
like it loops - so North we go. Several hrs. later - another
trail intersection - one north one south - no signs - didn't want south so I go
north for several miles to find I am on Bear Canyon Trail headed back to
Bozeman - NO!! Back south to try the
other. South turns into west - I like west – up – up - up four wheeler
trail - Just over the top and lo and behold a graded in road - has to be Trail
Creek Rd. Hit it and head south. Only to end up @ the Trail Creek
Ranger Station on Goose Creek.
Ask somebody there and they tell me Trail Creek Road is 6 1/2 miles back from
where I came - I hit Goose Creek Rd. @ Mile Marker 4 - No Goose Creek RD on my
map - only Newman Rd. Wondering if they're the same and only name
changed. So @6 pm I sat at the junction of Goose Creek and Trail Creek Rd. The girls drank well
about 2pm so they will have to do til morning - writing while holding horses
and being jerked around. Lots of grass! - Lots of bear poop filled with
chokecherry pits. We're a bit above the creek so maybe we will leave each
other alone.
Day 29
Sunday - Decent night, but I
was on too much of an incline so I kept sliding downhill all night. Plus
the ground had lumps. Worse than normal. I started out with just a
horse blanket and tarp, but by 1:30 am I was cold with the wind blowing so
pulled out the sleeping bag. It's worse cuz it's more slippery. We
found access to a small creek 2 - 300 yards back up the road so we watered in
the am and I got my bottles filled again. I was down to 1 left.
When leaving - the sign at the road said Goose Creek Rd and the first mile
marker I saw was #4 so less than 4 miles from the interstate. - We could
hear the trains all night. Double checked my map - No Goose Creek Rd.
We were on pavement for a couple of miles and all the fancy houses - then
gravel and more ranch country.
About 10:00 we hit Newman Rd.
- that's on my map. Going to have to get a better map to tell where all I
went yesterday and where I stopped. We were at the Divide Rd by about 12:30 pm & 4 1/2
miles to Livingston-Gardner Rd.
There was an abandoned R.R. Track that we rode til we hit a closed gate but the
exit/entrance to the road was closed by cattle guards and no access gates. So
we had to ride back south about 1/2 mile to the last gate I had seen and
gained access to the highway. A lot of riding shoulders next to the guard
rails - Girls did good though. We came to the end of a long guard rail
stretch only to find it stopped within 2 ft of a steel pipe post. Betsy
squeaked by but Hannah hung up the pack, tried again and made it. Small
tear in my pannier but fixable - later.
My biggest concern had been finding a place to stop with feed in Livingston. I saw a sign for a fishing access spot
& I thought I'd try that. Just then I noticed a widening spot to the west
of the road with a few trees. Riding back we found a level spot next to
an irrigation ditch with tall, green, brome grass - Good enough - this is home
tonite. Don't know how far out of Livingston
we are but we will take it in the morning! Hopefully find Carol & Tom
at work. 3 days when I figured 1 1/2 days - I wandered a lot in the
mtns. Better map might have helped, but I just didn't see many usable
trails around Mystic. One trail headed west out of Bear Lakes
but it hadn't been used in a long time and was all
overgrown. All kinds of four wheeler tracks around Bear Lakes
but don't know how they got there, other than what we rode. Better maps
are in order when in mountain country. I'm a little hesitant about McLeod
and Nye knowing that my maps aren't much good. Maybe I can find a better
map in Livingston tomorrow. Otherwise I
may take Bridger Creek to Lower Deer Creek to Nye. That trail I am more
sure of. 5pm good to be earlier tonight.
When we finally got to the
highway and I knew we'd be closer to traffic I thought, "Maybe I
should put on my right glove on" - I had burned it twice in Bozeman with
Hannah pulling back – But - "Nah what could go wrong" when she
hit the pipe post - yup she did it again and took the hide off my right ring
finger at the nail. Bandage time - and time for the gloves - After the
horses are out we close the gate--
I was stopped by 2 guys in a
Forrester kind of car and they asked if they could take my picture. – Sure -
why not so they drove on down the road a couple hundred yards and waited for me
to ride up. Out they both got with huge lens cameras. They had county 7
plates on their car so I commented about them being far from Kalispell.
The driver gives me a blank stare and says, "Huh?" So I mention
the 7 plates and they told me it was a rental - they are from Conn.
- out here to take wildlife photos and were headed for Yellowstone.
They had come up thru Jackson,
WY, and wanted to see the North
end of the Park, but that the fires had shut down Norris. (Fires?) that
is what I had smelled last night. Anyway, they asked if I had seen any
bears (I'd told them I had been riding for a month) and no. They hadn't
either. Just a mtn goat. Click, click, click, click as we are
visiting. "You are the most photogenic thing we have seen on our
whole trip" says the passenger. Click, click, click - and off they
go. - As I was surveying the irrigation canal as to how to get water, I noticed
an apple float by and Lo and behold across the hwy is an apple tree with lots
of 1 1/2'" sized red apples. Off I go to bring home treats!!
Some off the tree, some off the ground, and OOOh Big Bear poop filled
with chokecherry pits. Hope we aren't invading home territory!
H& B loved the treats anyway.
Day 30
Mon. - Colder this
morning - warm last nite but windy which must have brought in the colder
temps. Frosty but not bad. Went to bed about 8:00 feeling like
maybe a cold coming on - Kind of chilled so took some vitamins and snuggled
in. Felt better this morning - more apples for treats and not in too big
of a hurry cuz I didn't know if Carol opened at 9 or 10. It turned out to
be 10 and I got there just after. Passed a Forest Service office so I
stopped and got a real map. At the Trail Creek Ranger Station I could
have taken a 2 mile trail and saved me 10 or 12 miles or more - Checking
out a good map - I think I'll go to the East Boulder Mine and it's only 8
to 10 miles to the Nye side to Limestone. Heard several times today that
weather is supposed to change. A gal at the F.S. Station was talking about
how a truck air conditioner wasn't working and commented that after
Tues. she wouldn't be needing it anyway. Doesn't sound too serious,
but colder, wetter with a chance of snow. Carol gave me a pr. of
smart-wool socks and t-shirt which will be great. Also some dried mango
slices. I kinda wondered about them, but after I stopped, I tried one and
mmmm good! - Thanks Carol! - Never underestimate her! We shared a
Subway sandwich for lunch - mmmm good - I'd been yearning for one! I am
on Chicken Creek - only made it about 9 miles today but had a great time at Tom
& Carol's. Should make it home maybe by Sat. and weather coming in I
felt I should get on the trail, but after stopping not far from Livingston kinda wished I had stayed and left in the
morning. Tom's of the same opinion I am about coming times for the U.S.A. He
mentioned that even some of his millionaire friends are planning and planting
gardens. I think we are headed for hard times. No one knows if it's
end times but I feel certain it's hard times. Part of the goal of this
trip was to discern what is really necessary to sustain one's self. Bare
basics are pretty simple and resourcefulness. Many of the stares and
responses - especially from the youngest people - are showing me most don't have
a clue about what I am doing - or represent. Times past and mostly
forgotten. Sitting here as the sun sets, swarm of baby mosquitos are
overhead. So many at first I wondered what all the buzzing was
about. Grass is dry - H&B are having to eat what they passed by last
nite and this morning - Dry hills and not much green. But Chicken Creek
(little) is close so should be able to get water in the am. There was a
strong North wind so we are camped on the south side of the road bank. It
cuts the wind, but we get all the dust from every vehicle. Dust has been
a problem. Even the grass for H&B is dusty.
Day 31
I think I am about 4 miles
west of McLeod. It's only 3:30, but I think this will be about 1/2 way to
the east Boulder Stillwater mine - from there I go over the top to Nye or
Limestone and I want to start that stretch first thing in the morning. So
another 15 or 20 miles tomorrow then over the top Thursday - thinking I'll be
home Sat.- latest Sunday. Pretty ride on the west end of this road, then
about 1/2 way through we topped a rise and saw wide open grassland
rolling hills. First thought was more hot and dry. Wind was pretty
calm this morning and just briefly out of the northish - but soon changed to
out of the south and grew in intensity all day. We are camped behind an
irrigation ditch (water) with a young growth of aspens, maybe poplars. So
we are sheltered a bit from road traffic, wind strong out of the southwest and
hot. Undid Betsy and Hannah and Hannah's only nibbling, and Betsy's not
even interested and standing. My ongoing sentinel. Only possible
drawback is there were a few horses up the road and it looks like they can
access water past the fence we are backed into. They didn't follow us and
so far show no interest but we may have to deal with that. With all the
talk of weather coming in I don't know if I'll set up the tent or
not. Right now big fluffy clouds, wind, blue sky. Probably wait til
darkish to decide. Been really enjoying being under the stars! I
was stopped by two girls in a SUV and wanted to know if I knew about the guy
doing the same thing from Portland who's in Livingston. I mentioned I'd heard of him but hadn't
met him. They said he was set up just like I was. Wanted to know
where I was going and all that. As they were starting to leave the
passenger girl calls out & says, "Looks like you are totally
together!!" She reminded me of Collette Evertz.
Middle of the night (last nite) - or early morning cuz the moon was down - I
got this acrid pungent odor that stung the nose and made the eyes sting and
coming out of my sleep I realized it was a skunk. It had to have been
real close. I didn't want to sit up and startle the thing and suffer for
it so I carefully peeked about a bit and slowly stirred in my bag - hoping it
would get the message "Hey there's somebody here."
Nothing more happened. Judging by the Big Dipper I would guess it was
around 3ish. Even in the time of writing this Hannah is now just
standing.) Easy day and since last night's feed was pretty dry, we stopped
several times wherever we came across good green stuff and let them fill
up. With the extra time this afternoon - a real rarity! - I might sew
some tears in the top-pack mantie.
Carol - your mango slices didn't make it through the day! They were great
– I munched off and on all day for my lunch - what a tasty treat and pleasant
change from peanut bars!
Day 32
Wed. - Last night I prepared
to sleep outside and also set up the tent keeping in mind there was a storm
coming. By dark it was clouding over and the wind, which had calmed,
picked back up, so moved to the tent - Good thing - Sometime in the night the
wind wailed and the rain started in. By daylight it was really
raining. I caked the girls, and went back to the tent thinking I would
wait it out. I could hear it finally start to lighten up and could hear
this light kind of misty rain, I looked out the flap and the misty rain was
snow. It was sticking to the ground and coming hard. I initially
thought I'd just wait to see how it went, so I covered up with my sleeping bag
and napped a while. Finally about 10:30 or 11:00 I decided it wasn't
going to let up so I debated on staying the day or heading out. Not
hardly enough grass for H&B made me decide to go. So 11:30ish I packed up
and headed for McLeod. Knowing the pass over the top from the East Boulder to Nye was over 9000 ft. I decided
it best to go to Big Timber. There I can take Bridger Creek Rd to Absarokee and
home. Might add a day, but thought lower lands better than high
country. So I made it to 9 miles from Big Timber and could see North
was socked in with rain and I was starting to get rain again. So a
wide spot in the road, a little wind protection, grass and water is home
tonight. All along I have wanted to stop at the Road Kill Cafe and take a
picture with H&B out front. I thought it was south of McLeod, but it
was North so when I passed it I was surprised, wasn't really hungry so I
rode on by. About 2 miles down the road I told myself what an idiot
I was, that I didn't have to stop and eat but I could have still taken a
picture. Too late, too far to go back, too cold, I kept going to
Big Timber. I really wanted that picture, I regret not realizing it
sooner. Rain is setting in, 5pm, cold south wind - I'll see what morning
brings. I tried to see if I had phone service but battery is low.
Several times it has turned on in my pocket by mistake, but I thought I always
caught it. Didn't this time I guess cause I had freshly charged it at
Nate's. 7pm - raining steady, pretty socked in, see what is in the
morning. Time to get warm and hit the sack.
Day 33
Thurs. - Some days end
up having names for themselves such as "Ole Bill Day", today was
"Let's Ride Day". Having gone to bed at 7pm last night I should
have expected an early rise. When I did wake, first thought was
"It's getting light, let's ride." I crawled out of the sack,
took care of early morning duties, talked to Betsy to see if she was ready to
go, looked at my watch, 12:20 am. It was getting light cuz the clouds
were breaking up and the moon was peeking through. But a bit early to
ride, back to bed. Seems like I never did get warm, every time I awoke I
was cold. That's odd for a -20 bag. When real morning light came I
was ready to go. I caked H&B, saddled them both to warm them up while
they ate and broke camp. Off to B. Timber where I hoped to buy a resupply
of cake, have a hot lunch and decide where to go. About a mile out we
came to the "Old Boulder Road"
which we took. Nice gravel road, mostly sand and mud with the recent rain
and easy on the shoes - trying to make them last. Hit Big Timber guessing
11 to 11:30 - stopped at the post office which I guess said 10:59, Oct.
1st. I mailed a post card home cuz my phone battery died. Must have
pressed on my shirt pocket and run down. Went to K-W feeds and bought a
bag of cake. Reload packs in the panniers and was letting the girls free
feed on the rest when a red head freckled mom of 3 boys - and one on the way stopped
and said they were talking about me in the office. She said it brought
back memories of 20 years ago when her Grandpa rode from Montana
to Mexico and then later to Canada.
Two years prior to this he was diagnosed with some kind of cancer, given 6
months to live and told he would never ride again. Two years later he
rode to Mexico and Canada. I
asked her when he died - 4 years ago - 16 or 18 years after he was told he had
6 months to live. I reminded her of him.
I asked if she had horses, which she does, and asked if she minded
taking the rest of the cake sack home cuz I couldn't pack it all. She
did, and Jerry at the elevator brought out a tub to water the girls. He
offered where the bathroom was if needed, but that it was noon and they were
closing up for lunch.
Repacked and weighed I headed
for the Frosty Freeze for a hamburger lunch. While eating a fella came
out and visited about his horse and mule he has and commented he likes seeing
how everybody packs a little different. I stopped - or rode through Marilyn
and Hank Dykstra's but there literally was no place to tie up to so I rode
on. Cold and windy all day. Keep the hat screwed on tight.
Luckily it was mostly from the southwest and at the back. I was almost to
the Bridger Creek turn off when a fella in a small pickup stopped and commented
on what good time I was making - he had seen me at the post office right before
noon. He asked where I would stop, he offered his place, he was 5 miles
up Bridger Creek (509 Bridger
Creek Road). I told him I would watch for it
but when I headed up Bridger Creek I saw the sun and realized it was later than
I thought. 5 miles, 1 to 2 hrs and I'd
never make it before dark. He soon drove by and I explained my situation and
that I'd better find a place closer. He understood. So I headed
back to the frontage road south of the interstate where I had noticed some
brush for a wind break and a good stand of crested wheat grass. We
watered on the puddles left of Bridger Creek and called it home. First
time to camp by the interstate. What a contrast - from the wide-open
nobody land to the interstate. Give me the wide open, but this is what we
need tonight. Cookies from the Frosty Freeze for supper and journaling by
lantern light. I'll look at the map in the morning and decide what to
do. I may have to sew up a pannier, Hannah hooked it twice on guard rail
bolts coming out of B. Timber. Quick inspection showed I didn't have
to stop, but I heard pretty good rips both times.
Pilgrim's Progress Continues-
Day 34
Fri. - Camped at
the junction of Stockade Rd.
and Spring Creek Rd.
It's the first intersection out of Bridger Creek. Not much grazing across
Bridger Creek and the junction was the oasis we look for - inside corner, lots
of grass, water, and headlights of cars are overhead. Had a little later
start in the morning as I had to sew a pretty good tear in a pannier.
Didn't get out til 9am. Pretty noneventful ride. Ran into 2
crews of kids from Pennsylvania
out rebuilding fences from the Bridger Creek fire. This was their last
day and were quitting at 5:00 to catch their transportation back home. As
I was unpacked and H&B tethered about 5:30, they drove by in their van
- all waves and smiles. Hope they have a safe trip home. As I was
setting up camp I thought I could see a storm front building out west so I
pre-weighed my panniers figuring to be short and sweet if it was raining or
snowing. One of the guys on the fence crew said he'd heard we are to have
a foot of snow by Sunday. I was planning to take the west fork of Bridger
Creek and stopping at the Ranger Cabin, then ride Lower Deer Creek to Nye, then
home, but a foot of snow and me being in Nye Sunday didn't sound so
smart. Thankful for the news, as I would be 2 or 3 more days out and in
tough weather.
Day 35
Sat. - Heavy frost this
morning, but no rain or snow, only scattered clouds. Much better riding,
days have been nice, but I've worn my black winter coat all day, each day
though. Cool to cold winds. Today was a strong, steady north wind
all day with cloud banks building to south in the mtns. Stopped and
saw Joe Kern on the N. Stillwater
Rd for a bit. Then on to Beaver Creek Rd and headed for Cooney
Dam. I had thought of stopping to see Karen Tertelkta but ensuing weather
put the push on for Cooney. I figured 11 to 12 miles to home, doable in
snow and cold knowing there was warmth on the end side. It was 5:00 when
we hit the Cooney Store/Bar where I bought a couple of bottles of water and a
Pepsi. Figured on a splurge for the last meal out. Oh boy! A
Pepsi! - I thought of starting the stove and actually having a warm meal, but
lot's of grass belly high right below the dam and no real need. So last
raisin-oatmeal cookie, can of Spaghetti & Meatballs, and my Pepsi-Grand
Finale Meal!
Hard to believe this is coming to a close. It took forever to get here,
done so fast! It will be 36 days - 4 days off for rest and several
shortened days for rest so 32 days of actual riding. Necessity dictates
that I need to get back to work, but I know this suits me, I probably have
enjoyed this last week the most. Cooled off, tracfone died, plans and
routes were open, a bit less of schedules. I could have pushed on to Joliet and been there by
9:00 but not worth it. I would rather ride in the snow and cold than to
be under the pressure to get back. The girls are used to stopping by six
and I think it’s unfair to push them.
The next trip like this one, if there is one, will be concentrated on
days gone and not miles covered. This
trip was to cover miles in a certain allotted time. Not the time to
think, meditate and ponder, I did very little of that. Even with all day
seemingly with nothing to do but think, there was constant attention to travel,
water, and interaction with H&B.
Songs going through the head 500 times. I have found myself more
critical of the luxury life we live, the grotesquely overdone houses we
live in, loud cars we drive, and bikes, and fast pace life we think is so
necessary. I am not sure I know where the balance is or how to find
it. But we live in a "look at what I have" world. I am not sure we need to live as "Ole
Bill's" but I have probably appreciated him the most. And maybe the
Eckbergs, seeking the simple life. Pat at the Galt ranch, 3 room cabin
probably not more than 30 square feet with living room, bedroom and
kitchen. Sufficient - I liked that man. I could learn from
him.
I have read that when a man
and a horse spend their lives together there is a marriage that
happens. After leaving H&B tied at W.O.W. in Livingston
for 5 hrs and walking out to duet nickers and whinnies, I knew it had happened
to us, unbeknown to me. They have been true companions. I have
scolded, disciplined, brushed, petted and loved on them
and we have become bonded. I saddle and unsaddle, pack and unpack and
never tie them to anything. Betsy knows when it's time to stop. The
daily routine of the last 35 days have become habits. I suppose that
will all disappear now, that their lives will be filled with nothing to
do. Occasionally catch a cow, or climb a mtn for an elk, but no daily
routine. My routine will return to what was and I am not sure that I want
that. Bikes? I will probably take some sort of a ride even a ride to
bring my bike back from MN. I am not even sure that I will like that like
I once did. I think it was a cheap substitute for a horse. I have
often thought of the similar spirit of the biker and the horseman. Free,
alone, wind in the hair etc. But when I see bikes in packs and camped at
motels the common spirit disappears. I like the stars, the cool mornings,
the cold meals, the water when it is sweet, cold fingers and runny noses.
I saw a biker a couple of days ago coming out of Big Timber and except for
holes for eyes and nose you couldn't see the guy. Why cover up so much to
avoid the experience?
Lights fading fast and I need to set up my
tent. Day 36 tomorrow – Final Day!
Day 36
Was expecting rain or snow when I woke up but there was nothing. Heavy
overcast skies and a brisk north wind. As I fed H&B and began to
break camp the snow began to lightly fall. I pretty much got camp put
together dry. It seemed like I was reluctant to leave. I took
pictures of H&B each individually and gave them each a pet, a hug and word
of thanks for their companionship for the last month. They might not have understood but there was
a awful lot of dust in the air that was bothering my eyes! It seemed that
everything had "the last" attached to it. The last time putting
away the tent, the last time saddling & packing, the last drink on the
trail, the last breakfast of fruit and granola bars etc. - I began to
chide myself for my silliness - It finally turned into "good
grief - just get er done". So we walked back to Cooney and had a drink.
They grabbed at green brome grass like they hadn't eaten all night.
"The last green brome grass on this trip". Good Grief!
So off we head for the last
12 to 13 miles - how soon this day has come! The wind was cold! - toes
are cold, fingers are cold, wish I had a pair of Schnees. I've been
pondering what my list of essentials would look for another trip - Schnees
sure are on the list! The ride back to Joliet was pretty straight forward - mostly
the pavement with no shoulders and no ditch banks, but it's a cold Sunday
morning and not a lot of traffic. The closer we get to 212 Hwy the more
traffic we encountered and the more frustrated I got with it. I had been
pondering taking Lone Tree Rd
and stopping at Tony Yost's place, but the thought of riding in that north wind
up on the Columbus
road made me wimp out and stay down low. The 212 Hwy didn't appeal,
the wide ditch banks did, especially compared to gravel on the back road to Joliet. When we hit
the Hwy Betsy seemed to pick it up. Did she know we were close to
home? I had been pondering how to get a final "Home"
picture. I was sure Diane would still be at Williams as it would be Union Sunday. So I decided to first try Bischoff's
and then Joe Nemecheck. Bischoff's weren't home so I talked Joe into
it. Not much talking as he was more than willing! Thanks Joe!
A good friend as always!
So I stripped my gear in the alley and walked the girls down to their
pasture. It seems they were glad to be shed of their halters. First
things first, Betsy went right to the apple tree to check on the availability
of fresh treats - even though we had stopped on the way down and cleaned up the
down fall apples under Poleski's tree in the backyard. I had just closed
the gate and was walking back towards the shop when Diane drove up from Union
Sunday. Convincing me that there was still Lasagna left we headed
back to look for the leftovers, which there was plenty. It was a good
reentry into the everyday life of Joliet - good friends, good food, a good day
- Eventually we got the gear in from the alley and headed home to quick
put away garden hoses and bring in a little wood to prepare for colder weather
and a week's forecast of snow. Good to be inside next to a fireplace, but
at the same time it would have been okay to still have been out in it
too.
And so the Pilgrim's Progress
Ride of Sept. 2009 comes to its close. Similarly as it started - no
fanfare, no glitter, just a time to see what it's like to travel a long
distance horseback. As I commented to Joe N., as we were taking the
final pictures - I responded to the inquiry of "Did you like
it?" "If I could figure out how to make it pay, I would make it
my occupation!!”
I LIKED IT!
Epilogue, conclusions or
closing thoughts (or just general BS)
As I laid in bed Sunday
evening and was rambling and pondering out loud - keeping Diane awake while she
really needed to go to sleep, as some of us have to deliver papers at 5am - I
began evaluating experiences and interactions with different people along the
way. The last and maybe most impacting interaction was at Cooney Dam
Store. I had stopped for bottled water and a Pepsi for my last meal -
Grand Finale - which after all was said and done was just like all the
rest. Cold spaghetti and meatballs, last oatmeal/raisin cookie and a drink
of water. (I forgot about the Pepsi until I was in bed several hours
later.) But while at the store I was pouring the bottled water into my
saddlebag bottles and out comes a mom with 3 8-ish year old girls.
"Can we pet the horses?"
"Sure" - What's their names?" And so ensues a
conversation of 35 days on the trail, 650 miles of riding and almost home -
etc. Mom so impressed, 3 girls loving on Hannah and Betsy and finally
they head back into the store until their ride back to Billings is ready to go. All this
interaction - and I don't know their names, they don't know mine - but they
felt comfortable enough with a cowboy looking guy riding a mule and
leading a pack horse to come out and visit and pet the girls and talk to a
total stranger! If I had ridden up wearing my same chaps & boots
& coat, but in my helmet and on my motorcycle - that interaction NEVER
would have happened!!! It made me think back to all the interactions
during the past month. Mark and Barbara Berry, Ed Bredding, Susan
Phillipi, Art Dover, Wes Schenk, Wade's Cafe waitresses, the Harlowton grocery
store owner, the Wertheimers, Pat Bergan, Steve Buckingham, Mike and Ingrid
Eckberg, Frank(the CA ranch foreman), Rocko, Cindy Braaten, Joe McKamey, Tom
Rankle, Jim and Sandy, Don and Ann from Alaska, and dozens and dozens with
smiles on their faces, camera and cell phones in their hands, waving from their
cars as they hurried on their way, never would have stopped and given me a
second thought or the time of day, much less come out and want to pet my
motorcycle!!
People who live in the west,
people who tour through the west, people who have friends in the west still
have a love affair with the American West. To see a lone rider on either
a horse or a mule leading a pack animal stands out like a sore thumb on a
fast-paced, helter-skelter, noisy world and briefly reminds them what
we once were, or wished we knew in some form or fashion.
I have regrets already as I look back over the last month's ride. Those
regrets center on not making it more of my goal to connect even with the casual
passersby more. I tend to avoid fanfare, so often I took back streets to
avoid Main Street,
when maybe I should have ridden down Main
Street. Not for my sake, but for their
sake! I took back streets to get through Livingston,
maybe I should have ridden right down Main
Street. As I rode ditch banks and busy
roads and avoided eye contact, not wanting the attention or fanfare,
who's wave and smile did I miss to return? The tour bus in Livingston was loaded with retirement people from all
over the country who were enthralled with the sight of someone traveling on
horseback and I was asked to briefly talk with them and they soaked it up like
a dry sponge. At that time 30 days travelling and sleeping on the ground
- just because - was amazing to them. These were folks that were less
removed from our pioneer forefathers than the 20-somethings I rode
by. In fact the younger 20-something age people more often times
looked at me as if to say, "What planet are you from?"
We live in a world of stereotypes, not all Honda Goldwings, BMW riders, sports
bikers, or Harley Riders belong to the Hell's Angels but sad to say that is the
stereotype - dirty, long hair, sex offender, drug dealer, tough
guys. Even though it is far from true that image prevails
especially if you ride something fast, loud and chopped. The horse
and rider also has a stereotype attached. It is the strong individualist
who loves dogs, horses, children, and is polite to women. Something that
a mom and 3 young girls felt completely comfortable with coming up to a
complete stranger and asking to pet your horse! That is the
stereotype I choose to promote. That is what this society is starving
for.
I have encountered the
working cowboy this last month on the big ranch land open spaces that Montana is famous
for. Many are here with big money, putting on a big show buying all the
fancy houses with shiny glitter. But there are the working cowboys that
make their living with a pickup and trailer, horse and a rope, bailer and
swather, semi and tractor, who have my greatest respect, for the skills they
have mastered and ply everyday - I can't hold a candle to in so many
ways. But where we crossed paths and they heard the story of my ride
there was a connection and a camaraderie just because I was a man on a horse
traveling through the country. How many times did I hear "I'd
love to do that!" Others have skills I don't have, I have skills
others don't have, but none of that seemed to matter when we visited. A
man traveling horseback made the connection. Steve Buckingham told
the story of the day he rode upon a black bear and said to himself, "This
is the day I get to rope me a bear." So he shook out his
rope, built his loop and set out to rope his bear. Things turned out
that it didn't happen. He figured he'd lose his rope but he didn't
care! He had a chance to rope a bear!
I couldn't rope a fence post
if it was tied down, but this ride was my chance to rope a bear. And by
golly, I got er done.
Thanks
Dave
Dave and Diane Engel
ENGELS COACH SHOP
105 So. Main
PO Box 247
Joliet, MT 59041
406-962-3573
dave@engelscoachshop.com
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